Fragrance Houses
If you'd like to explore some Niche fragrances, but are not quite sure where to begin, below are some Houses I would recommend, along with some fragrances from each.
This list is highly influenced by own experience, and personal tastes, and should not be taken to be anything close to exhaustive.
In 1760, tailor James Henry Creed established a company outfitting the royalty and gentry, and later created a scent to fragrance the leather gloves of King George III. Since then, Creed have created a large number of olfactive compositions, and today, high quality and naturalness remain two veins running through every bottle. If you want loud and extravagant, look elsewhere; Creed offer subtlety, sophistication, and above all, a fragrance of astoundingly high quality, with a naturalness almost unrivalled. I find all Creed fragrances to possess a touch of the Aristocratic.
Personal Favourites
- Royal Mayfair - After a burst of gin and bergamot: fresh, pink rose; powdery eucalyptus; deep pine, and warming cedar. A blanket of happiness.
- Royal Oud - Creed's description is perfect: "A dream perfume from the pages of the Arabian Nights"
- Silver Mountain Water - "The exhilarating crispness of mountain air and the purity of cascading alpine streams coursing through the snowcapped Swiss Alps."
- Jardin d'Amalfi - The sparkle of fresh flowers; summer on the Amalfi Coast.
- Pure White Cologne - Clean, understated, traditional.
Fragrantica Page
Further Reading
Epic Man
In 1983, Muscat, Oman, Amouage was born, when
His Highness Sayyid Hamad bin Hamoud al bu Said, the Sultan of Oman, had a dream to restore the great Arabian art of perfumery to the region.
Inhaling the deep, rich fragrance of the Middle East, you'll discover much more than simply incense and oud. The Unisex Library Collection should not be overlooked; boasting arguably higher quality and variety than that found in the Main Collection. An incredible variety of scents, and truly The Gift of Kings. If you find yourself in Muscat, pop in to the Visitor's Centre for a tour.
Personal Favourites
- Opus V - A heavenly blend of dry woods and florals, with notes of citrus and soap. A true masterpiece.
- Opus VI - The wealth and power of the Middle East.
- Opus VIII - A mysterious interplay of jasmine and wood.
- Interlude Man - Deep plumes of incense rise amidst chests of golden riches, spilling from dark wooden chests.
- Epic Man - A complex blend of woods, resins, spices, and more. Rich and relaxing.
Fragrantica Page
The company sadly ceased production of their range of attars, which are now only available second-hand.
Frédéric Malle
After working in the perfume industry for over 15 years, Frédéric Malle invited 9 perfumers to join a company where they would have complete creative freedom, with no financial constraints with respect to ingredients, or technologies used. The original nine fragrances were a resounding success; the perfumer's names displayed proudly alongside their creation's titles. Since then, more perfumers have joined, and the house now boasts an outstanding line, with the quality and luxury synonymous with the art of French Perfumery.
Personal Favourites
- Carnal Flower, by Dominique Ropion - Young women were warned not to frolic in the fields of Tuberose after sunset; the carnal flower inciting forbidden thoughts, enrapturing the mind and heart; banishing reason, and tempting lust; stirring desires and inflaming the passions. Creamy and chaste, earthy and erotic. A sensuous seduction; a wild fantasy. The celestial beauty of the Cyprian Goddess; the breathtaking redolence of Venus herself. An opulent composition of incredible power.
- Portrait of a Lady, by Dominique Ropion - A dark, red rose against a backdrop of musk and patchouli. An elegant, powerful, sophisticated lady, of eternal beauty.
- Une Rose, by Edouard Fléchier - Against a light bouquet of geraniums: a deep, red rose, dripping with wine.
Fragrantica Page
Further Reading
Francis Kurkdjian
After failing to become a ballet dancer, Kurkdjian quickly redirected his path to Perfumery, gaining acclaim for creating Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male at just 26 years old. He went on to create over 40 fragrances, many of which iconic, for various other companies, before winning the prestigious Prix François Coty in 2001. 8 years later, Kurkdjian founded his own house, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, allowing him complete freedom to channel his creativity. Kurkdjian's creations are incredibly well blended; individual notes are difficult to detect. The combination of quality and variety you find in the line results in MFK's fragrances displaying a beautiful expression of French Perfumery.
Personal Favourites
Baccarat Rouge 540 (Eau de Parfum) - The ethereal and heavenly scent of crushed rubies. Soft, warm, luxurious, and extremely long lasting.
- Absolute Pour le Soir - An indescribable creation. Totally unique, and a personal favourite of Mr. Kurkdjian.
Fragrantica Page
Further Reading
Founded in the 1860's by barber William Penhaligon; the company combines English tradition with worldwide inspiration, resulting in fragrances of a distinctive quality and variety. Penhaligon's holds two royal warrants, offers fragrances made for English Dukes, and Indian Maharajas, and continues to blend their rich heritage with an inspiring creativity.
Personal Favourites
- Castile - Fresh bergamot, clean orange blossom, and warm neroli, amongst a wash of soap. The power and nobility of the Kingdom of Castile.
- English Fern - A fresh, green bouquet of lavender and geranium, on a warm bed of oakmoss.
- Hammam Bouquet - A wash of powdery rose and lavender, and warm, sensual musk. A traditional Turkish Bath.
- Savoy Steam (Eau de Parfum) - Watery, fresh, pink rose petals with steam and spice. Where Hammam Bouquet is warm and sensual, this is fresh and clean.
Fragrantica Page
Floris was founded in 1730 at 89 Jermyn Street where the store remains to this day, still run by the descendants of the Floris family. Boasting a rich history, two royal warrants, and clients including Mary Shelley, Winston Churchill, and Ian Fleming, Floris offer a wide range of distinctively English fragrances; subtle, sophisticated, and traditional.
Personal Favourites
Nº 89 - A beautiful blend of powdery rose and lavender, on a warm bed of sandal and cedar wood, with notes of musk, and oakmoss. The scent of a traditional, refined, Englishman.
Mahon Leather - A beautiful leather, with an interplay of woods and florals.
Royal Arms Diamond Edition - A summer's dance amongst the flowers of an English garden. Rose and violet shine through a bouquet of iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and bergamot.
Fragrantica Page
NISHANE
Based in Istanbul, NISHANE's fragrances capture and celebrate the history, culture, and variety, of the Turkish city. Deep woods, rich spices, and a variety of florals are blended to create unique creations with a distinctive style.
Personal Favourites
- Rosa Turca - A majestic soapy rose; clean, fresh, and warming.
- Spice Bazaar - The deep, rich scents of the spice market at the Grand Bazaar.
- Bozporusz - Inhale the clean, crisp, sea air of the Bosphorus strait.
Fragrantica Page
Established in 1978 as a manufacturer of luxury bathroom fittings, Czech & Speake first ventured into aromatics in 1980. The company now has a impressive line of fragrances, marrying British quality and creative inspiration. Czech and Speake remain family owned, and continue to manufacture luxurious accessories for locations all over the world.
Personal Favourites
- Nº 88 - A bouquet of roses against a backdrop of incense and sandalwood. Dark and mysterious.
- Oxford and Cambridge - English and French lavender, rest, with equally fresh mint and rosemary, on a warm bed of oakmoss. Evokes fond days at private English boarding schools.
Fragrantica Page
Legend has it that in 1380, the father of the Carthusian Monastery on Capri was surprised by an unexpected visit from Queen Joan of Anjou; the father presented her with a bouquet of the most beautiful flowers from the Island. Days later, the father was about to discard the flowers when he noticed that the water they had been resting in had acquired a "mysterious fragrance, unknown to him." He sought the friar versed in alchemy, who traced the mysterious scent to the Garofilium Silvestre Caprese. 600 years later, the Prior of the monastery came across the formula for the original fragrance, and founded the smallest perfume laboratory in the world, Carthusia. Today, the company has a line of fragrances rich with the scent of Italian History. The scent of Capri; the scent of Italy.
Personal Favourites
- Carthusia Uomo - An aquatic accord runs through a deep, warm base of cedar and oakmoss, from which bursts a complex floral bouquet, with geraniums at the heart. An interplay between the grandeur of Ancient Rome, and the papal splendour of Renaissance Rome. The power and velocity of Julius Caesar; the apostolic nobility of Cesare Borgia. A mature and dignified masculine masterpiece. A powerfully evocative quintessence of Italia.
- Via Camerelle - Close your eyes, inhale, and you are taken straight to Capri. A complex burst of florals and citrus. Happiness, joy; a celebration of an Italian Summer.