Notes: The Rose
“Into the gold of that rose that blooms eternal”
“Quicquid calcaverit hic, rosa fiat
(And wherever he steps, the ground shall become roses under his feet)”
One of the earliest niche fragrances I smelled had the most beautiful rose note: a just-blooming, long-stemmed, perfectly formed, pink rose.
Here I present a selection of sublime fragrances, all highlighting one of my favourite notes: The Rose.
Creed - Royal Mayfair
A late spring morning: After taking some brunch, you are driven to your manor, intending to retire for the remainder of the day. The large gate swings open, and the tires crunch over the small stones lining the driveway. You exit the car, and walk to the entrance; the afternoon sun kisses your skin, as a breeze of fresh pine washes over your face. You walk through the beige and gold lobby; details of the walls and ceiling sparkling as they catch the light. You notice the flowers have been recently replaced, the long corridor now lined on either side with freshly cut, tall, long-stemmed pink roses. As your footsteps resound from the solid wooden floor, you slow your pace, and savour their fresh, rich scent.
After an initial burst of gin and citrus, the fragrance settles into a regal blend of fresh, pink rose, stem and all, and eucalyptus, resting on a bed of pine and cedar. The rose recedes as time goes on, leaving a warm, powdery musk. In one word: Aristocratic. A fragrance for life.
Frederic Malle - Portrait of a Lady
A large ballroom. Chandeliers. Men in black-tie, women in evening dresses. A woman in an elegant black dress, with long, dark, flowing hair; short, black heels; subtle gold jewellery: a necklace, one or two rings, small ear-rings, a small-faced watch; a small black handbag. She takes a sip of champagne and walks past, her scent lingering in the air.
Incredibly powerful, lasting a very long time. The rose is dark, infused with incense, patchouli, and notes of raspberry. I would say it's more suited to the evenings. I sampled a pre-reformulation version; the rose was less dark and the raspberry was more prominent; I recall the scent still lingering so strongly the next morning, I felt slightly sick. One of the strongest fragrances I have experienced.
Frederic Malle - Une Rose
Red wine, splashing and flowing in a container-less sphere; at the centre, a red, red, rose, with large petals, and a long stem.
The name is perfect; the most realistic red rose that I have ever smelled. It's the whole rose; the deep scent of the petals, and the greenness of the leaves and stem, all set against a backdrop of red wine, with a bouquet of geraniums. A beautiful expression of the rose, but, alas, too boozy for my taste.
Frederic Malle - Lipstick Rose
A young girl getting ready for a date. Pink lipstick & makeup. The scent would not feel out of place on the ladies in the Mad Men scene linked.
This is very different from the previous two; a mix of violet and rose in equal measure with a light backdrop of musk and powder. Very youthful and feminine.
NISHANE - Rosa Turca
A dark, hot summer night. The lights are off in a dark bedroom. The shower is running. Soft, warm, yellow light escapes from the top, bottom, and sides of the en-suite door. The shower stops. The en-suite door unlocks. (In slow motion) The en-suite door begins to open. The light begins to seep through into the room, steam pouring through the door. A beautiful, pale, blonde-haired woman steps through the door tightening a white bath robe around her soft skin. A cloud of rose and soap flood into the bedroom.
A soapy, red rose with notes of jasmine. Very calming and soothing. Perfect day and night, all year round.
- View on Fragrantica
- (NISHANE's site is down as of writing)
Penhaligons - Hammam Bouquet
Istanbul. You enter the large, expansive stone complex of the Turkish bathhouse. After changing and wrapping yourself in the towel, you enter the small bathing room. The air is redolent with clouds of steam, moving and rising in pillars. Large bubbles spill over the bath and floor, filling the air with the scent of fresh, clean soap. As you rest yourself on the stone, the soft, warming scent of roses burst forth from the oil which drips over your body; the bather working it into a thick, rich lather. You close your eyes, relax, and thoroughly savour the lavation. You exit the complex in a wash of powdery rose and lavender, feeling thoroughly cleansed; your spirit refreshed.
Warm, powdery rose and lavender, on a bed of cedar. Very warm and relaxing. With the first spray, you are treated to a burst of Turkish Delight. After this dissipates, I smell warm, red rose and lavender, a wash of powder, and notes of musk. My nose detects none of the animalic musk, and orris root, that other people smell. I had a traditional Turkish bath (in Turkey) a very long time ago, which this perfectly evokes, taking me straight back to that large, stone bathing room. The notes are well blended so the rose is not as prominent. This also evokes the multiple bathing scenes by Jean-Léon Gérôme.
Penhaligons - Savoy Steam (Eau de Parfum)
Ancient Rome. You are dining with the Emperor in the late afternoon of a sultry summer's day. You and the other guests are decked in richly coloured togas, and crowned with wreaths of bright, fresh flowers. You bask in the shade, lounging around a large fountain, the water softly spraying from the source, and flowing around the guests, terminating at the large pool. Your ears are treated to a soft song of pipes and flutes; the soft trickling of the water refreshes your senses, as the heat is fanned away with large, beating palm leaves. Servants attend the guests; clearing each course, providing small bowls of water to cleanse the hands before the next course is delivered, and the glasses refilled with rich, red wine. As you inhale the subtle spices of the dish before you, the Emperor gives a nod, and the false ceiling collapses: a rainfall of fresh, pink, rose petals descend from above, showering the guests. As they drift into the water, their scent bursts to life, radiating the room in a heavenly fragrance.
Watery pink rose petals, with notes of cardamom, which, for me, instantly recall Alma-Tadema's masterpiece. For the jewel of the fragrance, Penhaligons use the patented ingredient, Rose Essential™: fresh, Turkish rose petals undergo steam distillation; additional fragrant molecules being removed and re-blended, resulting in the spectacularly realistic scent of fresh, pink petals. The heavenly rose is infused with notes of water, steam, and the subtle aroma of cardamom and pepper. Personally, I do not detect any incense in the composition. If Hammam Bouquet is a traditional Turkish bath, think of this as a fresh, clean, English interpretation, retaining the orientalism with the subtle notes of spice.
Frapin - Nevermore
It's a dark, rainy evening. The last minutes of daylight are receding. A large, wooden manor overlooking the country. (Think "Mother's" house in Hitchcock's Psycho). At the top floor, at the top of the stairs, at the end of the hall, is a young gentleman's study. You open the door and the wall on the left has a very large, old, sepia-toned map of the world. The other walls hold leather-bound books, and heraldic shields and framed certificates, amidst the mahogany panelling. The window has a view of the country; it's slightly ajar, the rain pouring down. Thunder claps. Lightning flashes. A large, leather chair is tucked into the expansive wooden desk beneath the window. The desk is strewn with books, ink-pots, and papers, with erratic lines of verse written in dark, black ink from the Montblanc Meisterstuck 149, that lays uncapped atop a copy of Poe's complete works bound in a brown-leather prize binding.
This is a very dark, withering rose, swirling with incense, against a backdrop of wood, and notes of paper, ink, and saffron. Perfect for a cold, rainy day. Very strong and long lasting. If you've seen the film Psycho, I think the manor perfectly evokes this fragrance.
Honourable Mention: Amouage - Opus X
Amouage's description is almost perfect:
A multifaceted floral and woody fragrance unveiling an olfactive canvas of roses.
This is rose overload; the top notes are listed as: "Rose centifolia, Rose Accord, Rosebud, Rose Oxide." That's a lot of rose. There is a good blend with the woods, but, unfortunately, Opus X has varnish and metallic accords which are either love or hate, and which I personally do not enjoy.
“Rose the fairest of all flowers,
Rose delight of higher powers,
Rose the joy of mortal men,
Rose the pleasure of fine women,
Rose the Grace’s ornament,
Rose Dione’s sweet content.”
